Finding that place…. #surf #travel
I spent a long time watching people surf waves before I ever paddled out. Even before I moved to Hawaii I’d scour the photos and writings of SURFER & SURFING magazines. My favorite was a piece or caption about searching for a place that doesn’t really exist.
Once in Hawaii, I’d sit and watch north shore surfers get some sic waves and get pummeled by them too. I’d silently marvel at the fact that a human could live through such beatings but mostly at how after such earth pounding pummels the surfers would pop up somewhere and sprint back out for more.
I’d hang out with big wave riders tripping on the whole scenario and the pearls of wisdom the Hawaiians would drop on Haole big wave riders; things like “it’s only water brah”.
I don’t know what or who made me do it, but 2 years later I bought a used…
View original post 709 more words